Thursday, February 28, 2008

Good Night and Good-bye BA

It is late and almost time to leave this town for a while.

I awoke today, my last full day in Buenos Aires for a bit, to some rain. By late morning, there was heaps and heaps of rain. I ventured out to my CitiBank ATM (not too close) and got drenched along the way. I wore my Tevas, which was a good thing as i had to do some long jumping over flooded areas. I am not sure how much rain they had, but the 12:00 news spoke of chaos on the roads and had pictures to prove it - kayaks in the streets and cars in gridlock. I do not know what part of town experienced that but i believe it.

On my way back from salsa tonight, i stopped by a bar near the hostel. As I passed by, I looked in the window and noticed 4 people playing guitar and one guy with a big drum. They were not the bar´s entertainment; rather, they were patrons who brought their guitars. I watched them for a while as they played and sang. (I have no idea what song tghey were signing. It could have been an old pop song or a nationalistic song.)

They played and sang quite loudly. Although they were loud, it appeared that no one outside their circle was paying any attention. It may be that they had been playing for quite some time. i am not sure.

When there was a bit of a lull between songs, I heard other music. It did not sound as if it was coming from speakers. As I looked around, I noticed at the other end of the bar that two guys with guitars were sitting at a table of 5 or so and playing and singing.

I am sure the same thing happens in some bars in the US but i have never seen it.

I am off to Uruguay tomorrow but I will return to BA, at some point, to fly north.

I look forward to it.

bjm 02.29.08

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

No Tengo Cambio

¨I don´t have change.¨

It is a phrase often heard here in Argentina.

The money is Pesos (2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 notes) and centavos (100 to the peso. 5, 10, 25, 50 centavo coins and a 1 peso coin).

It is always good to have change because no one seems to have it here.

if you go to a store and buy something for 2.40 and hand them a 5 note, chances are they will ask if you have .40 change.

They will also ask for smaller bills if you give them a 50 or a 100.

I was in a grocery store, which was doing a good deal of business, and the cashier (who was sitting down, as they all do) had to ask the manger for change - 3 customers in a row. The manager came, gave some change for the first customer, went away, second customer - same thing. I step up, pay for my 24 pesos in groceries with a 100, the cashier calls the manager.

I have not figured out the lack of change issue. it is not due to the use of non-cash to pay as it seems 95%+ of all transactions seem to be in cash.

Today, I am back in BA with 2 x 100 peso notes and some change. I figured I would help myself out by stopping by the bank and break a 100.

Enter bank.

Ask for 9 x 10P and 10 x 1P.

Teller hands me 50, 2 x 20 and 10. He then adds ¨I do not have any more 10´s¨

after some talking, I am able to get 10 peso out of him and he gets his neighbor to break a 20 and I receive 2 x5´s and a 10.

I chalk it up as a success since I can now pay .90 for the bus and buy a 5P ice cream without the hassel of trying to find change.

adios

bjm 02.27.08

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Magellanic Penguins at Punta Tombo, Argentina

What do you get for an A$150 tour of Punta Tombo (south or Puerto Madryn)?

About 750,000 penguins.

I did not count them all but that is the estimate of the number of penguins calling Punta Tombo home (for part of the year). I can verify that there are heaps of them.

The tour covers about 400 km during a 10-12 hour day. It is quite long and parts of the tour are not worth it.

The first stop seemed to be almost mid-way between Puerot Madryn and Punta Tombo to see Commerson dolphins. I did not feel like spending the extra $75 for that portion of the trip, so I walked around the small beach town and watched a group of older women getting their exercise on and saw the bike portion of a triathlon.











The tour takes you through a very dusty and dry part of Argentina. If someone offers you beach front property, be sure to ask them to turn from the beach and take a pic to see what you are truly getting.

After my non-dolphin tour, it was back in the minivan to Punta Tombo. The guide tells you there will be many penguins but you do not know quite what to expect.

After we arrived, I took a picuture of the first penguin I saw. Who knows how many I would see along the way and how close I would get.

I did not have to worry. i saw more penguins than i could want to see. And I got close enough to step on them.

...Oops sorry about putting my foot on your tail little buddy. I did not see you down there....

Along with the penguins, we saw one of the 4 types of llamas that are in Argentina. this one is not used to carry goods but people are trying to raise them (or domesticate them) because their wool can get A$200 per kilo (i think they guide said that. he may have said US$200. Whichever the case, big bucks).

Here are a few penguin pics.


bjm 02.026.008








Cars of Patagonia

I am not sure what it is, but many people in Patagonia like driving around in some old (and probably unsafe) cars.

Here are a few of the wheels you´d see on the roads down here.

bjm 02.26.008




Memory, don´t fail me now

because the language skills sure have.

I had my first travel screw-up today, which, after 4 months on the road, is not too bad. I thought, for sure, that I was on the 15:00 bus to BA today. I had one part correct, 15:00 but they day on the ticket was for tomorrow.

They say, when life throws you lemons, make lemonade. I was trying to figure out how i could bitch out the ticket lady, knowing a) I can´t really speak Spanish and b) I need her to re-issue a ticket for today, because I am sure I asked for a ticket for today. However, I think some have questioned my ability to remember things. In this case, I am quite certain I asked for a ticket for today. I was more confident after i got her to change the ticket to the bus at 20:00 and then she said, in spanish, ¨Okay, here is a new ticket. it is for 20:00, manana.¨ Meanwhile I am thinking ¨which word in ´hoy´ don´t you understand?¨ So the blame is on her.

Now the rain has stopped here and maybe i should have stayed for the night, but I do not want to have to go to that booth again.

In the next 4 hours, i will see what this town has to offer.

bjm 02.026.008

On comes the rain, Change go the plans

I left Puerto Madryn last night with the idea of spending about 2 days on the beach in Villa Gesell.

After 17-ish hours and two buses, I arrived in this beach-front town....to a complete downpour. And the tourist office said that the rain should end by Thursday. Well, that was enough to get me on the next bus to BA.

I figure rainy day in BA is probably better than a rainy day in Villa Gesell.

The trip to BA has now cost more in time and money than it would if I had travelled directly from Puerto Madryn, but I can´t control the weather.

On Friday, it is off to Montevideo. During my previous visit to Montevideo, it was 4 days of rain. I hope to not have a repeat performance.

bjm 02.026.008

How Long Must I know you

...before you are in a photo with me?

Survey says.....less than 5 minutes. I do not remember if I knew the names of these women (Paola y Laticia -or some such thing) prior to the shot.


They are from Brazil, working on a cruise ship out of Italy and I found them wandering the beach in Argentina.


Pura Vida


bjm 02.026.08
8

Sunday, February 24, 2008

If at first your don´t win...

...bet, bet, aand bet again.

I went back to the casino last night and took the house for more money than they would want to admit.

Well, I took them for 60 pesos. after my 2 o peso loss earlier, i am now up 40 pesos.

Yeah me.

bjm 02.24.08

Friday, February 22, 2008

Gambling my life away

Every so often, the casino calls my name. It happened tonight in Peurto Madryn. Although I have seen a number of casinos on this trip, I have only been drawn in by two.

Tonight, I went through 20 Pesos in two spins on the roulette table. I was close to winning on both spins. I thought about putting some more cash on the line but then I thought ¨20 pesos...that is 3 ice creams stops i am throwing away.¨

I am not sure why, bt the 20 pesos tonight seemed to hurt more than the 2,000 pesos i lost at the table in Bogota.

Maybe i learned my lesson....but i doubt it.

bjm 02.22.08

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Guate Kids 2007

















Here are a few pics of some of the Xela youth. They work, they play, they smile, and they go hungry.


bjm 02.21.08.



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Hostel 1004 Vino

Here are a few pics from the wine tasting event at Hostel 1004 in Bariloche.

the non-wine pic is of two of my roommates. Who, in honor of Valentine´s Day, made me a house scene - complete with trees, a car and a roof that opened to the inside of the house. I had given them some chocolates ealier in the day (bariloche is famous for its chocolates). I think I go the better deal.
bjm 02.21.08




You can´t always get where you want



But sometimes, you get where you need.

I am in Patagonia. It is a wondrous place. However, I am traveling without equipment to go backpacking; therefore, my off-road experiences are often limited to the periphery of great sites.

Yesterday, I went to Los Alerces National Park. I believe it was Argentina´s first national park. I, and a Dutch guy from the hostel, caught the first of two buses to the park (8:00 and 2:00). We, and 3 others, got of at Lago Verde. The 3 others were an Argentine couple from BA and an Argentine woman from the province of Buenos Aires. The 5 of us spent the day doing a (somewhat minor) hike in the Green Lake area.

Although I know I may not make it back to this part of the world, there are times when I think that this trip is just a practice run for a future trip - one in which I have a tent. I am probably un poco loco with those thoughts.

The park is quite large, of course, so we only were able to see a small portion of one area of the park but there were some spectacular views. My camera is not able to capture the natural beauty but I attach some pic nonetheless.

We caught the buss back at the end of the day. Although I do not think we walked too much, I was a bit tired as we entered the bus. I do not know the distance of the entire bus ride was, but I remember seeing an ¨Esquel 60 km¨ and that we arrived in Esquel 2 hours later. Ouch. when I was in shape, I think I could have run faster.

We returned in time for me to grab a bite to eat and then head to the local Irish bar (hours 10:00-04:00 Sun - Thurs, 05:00 Fri and Sat) for the weekly salsa lesson. I put on my least dirty clothes and my hiking shoes and hit the dance floor.

After salsa and a fabulous ice cream (Argentina gives US a good run for its money in terms of ice cream), I watched the start of the lunar eclipse as I made my way back to the hostel.

It was a very clear night for more than one-half of the eclipse. As the moon became more covered, the view was eclipsed by clouds. However, when the eclipse was total, the clouds parted and, in the hostel´s backyard, we saw a wonderful site.

bjm 02.21.08

patagonia express




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Argentine Kingfisher?

Walking in Los Alerces national park yesterday, I came across this kingfisher-type bird. He was much larger (longer and broader) than those seen in Canada.

From the quality of the photo, I´d say I should not quit my day job to go work for National Geographic.

bjm 2.21.08
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Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Viejo Expreso Patagonico

aka ¨The old Patagonia Express¨. Butch Cassidy is said to have ridden it and author Paul Theroux did ride it. Today, you can add my name to that list.

What the Express once was, is not what it is today. Today, and at this time of year, the Express serves tourists and brings them on a 20 km ride from Esquel to a ¨station¨, Nahuel Pan, where you can visit a very small museum dedicated to the indigenous people of the region and buy some handicrafts from some of those same peoples.

I took the train just for the ride through a bit of Patagonia. A bit of history can be yours for only 50 Pesos (+/- $17). I´d give the ride a thumbs up.

I arrived in Esquel from El Bolson, a town about 180 km north. Most guidebooks describe El Bolson as a hippie town. Most guidebooks are correct. I arrived in town on Saturday afternoon and the central park was filled with more dreadlocks than you´d seen in Jamaica. I think the vending crowd was a mixture of locals and traveling folk - those who live out of their backpacks while selling necklaces and the like. When among that crowd, it helps to have multiple piercings, tattoos, and very dirty feet. I met only the last qualification. And since i can´t join a drum circle, i do not quite fit in that crowd.

The park made for good people watching.

I was able to find my crowd on Saturday night - salsa dancing. I went to the pub at midnight only to be told that the band would not come on until 2:00 am. A Coke kept me going until the band started and I was dancing until much too late in the night - or very early in the morning, whichever the case may be.

bjm 2-19-08



Monday, February 18, 2008

Pretty sure this is my first blog ever

I guess first of all, I should probably update everyone on what I’m doing with my life. For those of you who don’t know, I moved down to Blacksburg in the beginning of January to kind of start on my own. I know a lot of people down here, I was offered a job, and my Dad’s house is crowded as it is. The job I took is with a non-profit, the Boys and Girls club of America. It is an after-school program where I work with some at-risk kids; I mentor, teach, and just basically keep them out of trouble. I’m living with friends that I used to live with, someone left and they were looking for a roommate so everything just worked out perfectly. I have been going out with a girl for a few months now, her name is Kaleigh. She is a sophomore at Tech and is amazing, insightful, and just the sweetest girl I’ve ever met. That’s about it right now, oh, I also just started substitute teaching down here. I plan to do that for the rest of the school year, then try to go for a Masters in counseling or teaching next year.

I decided to blog today because I had something on my mind that I felt I should share. I had a fantastic week last week and it got me to thinking that I am a pretty lucky guy. Each day last week just seemed to get better and better. Work was fun and the kids seemed to be learning a lot, Valentine’s Day couldn’t have gone better, I had a few good talks with family, and I was visited by my best friend this weekend. Everything just seemed to go my way. So when I woke up today I contemplated the past week and my life in general and made the realization of my luck. I am blessed with great friends, an exceptional girlfriend, a rewarding job, and a loving family. Life is good. Now, I’m not writing this just to brag about how well life is going for me right now, it is more that I didn’t think that I let each and every one of you know how much I appreciate you and how you affect my life. I have learned that good and genuine people are hard to find in this world, yet my world is filled with them. It is a great feeling. Many of you have made me the person I am, whoever wants to take the blame, and many of you understand me which allows me to continue being me. I hope that made sense. I guess what it all comes down to is that this has been my attempt to show how much I appreciate all of you, but I know there is no possible way I could fully express it through words, so I hope this will do for now. Thank you all for being in my life and to each of you, thanks for being you.

Sean Jones 2/18/08

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Hostel 1004, Bariloche

From this past Tuesday until saturday, I stayed in a wonderful hostel in Bariloche, Argentina - Hostel 1004.

The hostel is located on the top floor (10th) of Bariloche´s tallest building. Although the building, itself, is not impressive - it looks somewhat like a Soviet-era office building - the view from the hostel was spectacular. I will attach some pics soon. I hope they can capture a bit of the feel for over-looking the city´s lake and the mountains surrounding it.

On Valentine´s night, there was a wine tasting party. The party was connected through a local wine store. I figured the hostel crew has the connection with the wine store and it happens to be Valentines day, so a perfect time for a little wine and cheese.

The hostel guests and others were to bring a bottle of wine and/or brings some snacks. Being the wine-less man that I am, I made banana bread for the party. What goes better with a nice cold cabernet than some banana bread?

As the ¨wine tasting¨party was getting underway, I noticed that the hostel´s music was a bit loud. I suggested to the manger that he may want to turn it down a bit so the people could hear the pros talk about the wines. He told ¨Oh, we don´t discuss the wines, we just drink them.¨

It turns out that it was a wind ¨drinking¨party not a ¨tasting¨party. And the event wasn´t all that special. They often have similar parties every 2 weeks or so - depending on the vibe in the hostel.

i guess the vibe was good because I was dancing until they shut off the music at 2:00. Argentina may party all night but in this hostel, after 2:00 is quite time.

In my costa rica hostels, quite time was 10:00. sometimes I miss costa rica.


bjm 2/16/08

Is it time for bed yet?

How does this country work with the hours they keep?

It is Saturday night (actually 01:30 sunday morning) and I was (am?) looking forward to checking out a salsa band playing near the hostel. (I am in El Bolson, Argentina at the moment.)

I went to the bar a bit past midnight to check out the scene. Aside from the two guys behind the bar, there were only two other people in there. I told one of the bar tenders that I thought there was to be a salsa band tonight. He said ¨Si. Mas tarde.¨ How much later, i asked. He said that they´d probably start around 2:00 and go until 4 or 5 depending on the crowd.

Having stayed out until 4 last night (3 of the people I was with did not leave the disco until 5:30), I am not sure i can make it until 2:00 tonight and still have a reasonable chance of getting up tomorrow to take in some of the mountain area. But how often will I be in el bolson with a salsa band palying down the street? I bought a coke at the bar and I am trying to make it until 2 to make sure i can walk down the street to check out the band.

Now, if only I hadn´t left my dance shoes in buenos aires.

bjm 2/16/08

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

20 Hour bus ride? Yes please!

On Monday, I hopped on the bus in Buenos Aires for a 20-ish hour ride to Bariloche, Argentina. You can never go into a bus ride too excited.

However, when I saw my ride, I had no problems with it. The long distance buses may be as luxurious as you can get without being in a rock band.

The seats are better than most i have seen in first class of airplanes. There are two levels. I was on the upper one, which is the only place to be. they serve meals. And the seats are said to recline to 160 degrees. I will bring my protractor the next time because i am not sure about that part.

After falling asleep within the first 30 minutes, i awoke sometime later to a nice sunset. I haven´t quite figured out the sun here. I know it goes E-N-W. It seems to set quite late here. I know we´re toward the end of summer here - I think August in the northern calendar. It seems to stay light until 10-ish.

After leaving the lush plains of western Buenos Aries, where it looks like all food is grown, we spent much of the post-dawn early morning riding through scrub desert-type land. It reminded me of the American southwest (that would be United States of America). I´m sure Hiker Mike would tell me that it is not even close, but to the uneducated eye (that would be mine) it is.

After what may have been hours we began to enter the mountains. Not huge mountains but they looked big and they are bare. It doesn´t seem that you have to get too high before you are above tree line.

We followed a very long lake for many, many miles. (It just seemed to go on for ever. I really need to look at a map to see what it is of which I am speaking.) At 4:00 or so, we arrived in Bariloche. As I exited the bus, I knew it was going to be a great place. The sun shone in deep blue skies and the bus station sat next to a good-looking lake.

I was happy to be here.

The adventures continue.

bjm 2-14-08

Sunday, February 10, 2008

If it is 03:15...

and the people in the bar are just about to cut a birthday cake...this must be Buenos Aires.

Yes, I am in Buenos Aires and it is a late, late town.

One Friday, I was at a salsa club (where I found some very good dancers) and found myself yawning. I did not understand why I was tired at a packed dance club. But then I asked the time, it was 2;45, and I understood. I ended up leaving the club at 3:30 or so and I was far from the last to leave.

When I got to my hostel room, only 2 of the eight people were there.

Last night, I promised myself I would get back at a reasonable time. I think I left the (same) club a bit about 2:30. I decided to walk back a bit so I could get an idea where the club was in relation to the neighborhood in which i am staying. I figured I would walk and then take a taxi. Well, one nutty buddy and one sorbet later...I walk in the hostel at 4:00. And I passed bars/restaurants that were full of people. I am not sure i could take this town for more than a few days. Maybe the body clock can adjust to the BA life.

I have done a bit of touring around of the city. On my second day here, I had lunch with John and Dolores from the old home town . They like ¨wintering¨here. As it was 36+ degrees celsius (96F) when I arrived, there is not much winter here for those coming from Syracuse.

Yesterday, I visited the national cemetery, home to Eva (Evita) Peron. It was certainly one of the most interesting cemeteries I have ever seen. The entire place, about one city block, is filled with (mostly) big (often family) tombs of the rich and powerful of argentina. Eva´s tomb is quite nondescript, if you don´t consider the many tour groups filing past it.

There were cats, cats all over the cemetary. More cats than patches of grass, in fact. And in the Botanical Gardens, there were many cats. I am sure there must be some sort of story about them. What roaming homeless dogs are to Xela, cats seem to be to parts of Buenos Aires.

All for now

bjm 2.10.08
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Tuesday, February 05, 2008

Santa Elena, Costa Rica

During my walk through the Santa Elena, Costa Rica cloud forest, I came across a troupe(?) of monkeys. I attach a pic of some monkey and of me. I hope you can tell which is which.
bjm




2 omlets...

1 fruit plate
3 glasses of oj
1 bowl of cereal
3 croissants

...burp...

That was breakfast today in Bogota, Colombia - courtesy of Avianca airlines.

I was on my way to Buenos Aires, having decided that I was done with Central America, when I volunteered to get bumped from my flight. In return, I got 2 tickets, a night in a great bed and 3 meals.

At the moment, Avianca is not making out on this deal.

Now, I will arrive in BA tomorrow morning, the day after the US´s Super Tuesday primary day. It will be a big news day. I hope I will be able to understand the results when i pick up the Buenos Aires Times.

Tuesday - Colombia, Wednesday - Argentina.

I can only imagine what Thursday has in store for me.

bjm

Saturday, February 02, 2008

Bocas del Toro

Life in Bocas del Toro is like a dream, if you have dreams of being chased by a devil, dressed in black, who is looking to whip you. Running from the devil seems to be one of the high lights of the Carnaval in Bocas del Toro. Why the young me, because it is only young men, want to taunt the devil and risk an open wound on the leg is beyond me. I am not sure if i would have done the taunting when I was in my late teens.

At some point, I will add some pics so you get a feel for the story.

Carnaval began last night, to a slight chill and showers in the air. I felt that the most import thing last night was to play music and play it LOUD!!!!! I do not know what it is about the people of Central America (in the countries I visited) but they have the need to blast music, no matter what the venue.

On Ometepe, Nicaragua, 5 of us went to an open-air bar. There were no more than 10 other people there (including the workers), and yet we had to shout across the table just to be heard because the music was set to 11.

Last night was the same - if you can´t entertain them, at least y ou can blow their ear drums away.

The town of Bocas del Toro is quite small. There is a main street and then a few others. therefore, there is not a great deal of people to create a huge party atmosphere for Carnaval. But they try.

I will leave here tomorrow head to Panama City to see what I can see.

Today, I went to an island off the main Bocas island. Carenero is well within sight of the docks at Bocas. Even in my poor shape, I am sure I could swim between the islands. However, due to boat traffic, I opted for the $1 water taxi. Two minutes later, I set foot on new territory. I was searching for a decent beach as there is not one too close to Bocas.

I walked the entire island and I never did find a good beach. I found the island´s ¨Beach¨but I was disappointed with it. There were no real waves and you had to be certain you didn´t walk on the coral.

There were times during the walk that mine were the only footprints in the sand. I looked out to the empty ocean and I saw no sign of others. I wondered what it must have been like for the first settlers to these parts. Did they think they were in paradise?

As I rounded the corner and Bocas came in sight, there were clear signs of life - in the form of hundreds of plastic bottles. Those messages that people in Bocas stuff inside bottles only make it 500 yards off shore.

Carenero may be paradise lost.

I did not bring my camera to the island so I don´t have pictures of the shacks, on stilts, which are held together by hope, prayers and chicken wire, and the new (and huge) homes being built on the island. There were a few spots where one of the shacks (while each man´s home may be his castle, these are truly not much more than wood slats and tin roofs) was on the water directly in front of the new house. I am not sure what the guests from the states will think when they arrive for a visit to Jack and Wilma and they park the boat right next to what would be a condemned house in the states. My thought would be ¨You´re retiring to this?¨

I won´t be retiring anywhere as I am spending all my savings now.

Life is good

bjm 2/2/08