Saturday, January 19, 2008

Nicaragua to Costa Rica

I arrived in Costa Rica today after an trying journey through the countries' border.

The guide books talk about the border crossing between Nicaragua and Costa Rica taking a few hours. For some reason, I chose not to believe it.

I spent last night in San Juan del Sur - the site of the knife-wielding local. It was all good this time. No knife, no attemted mugging.

This a.m., I caught a taxi ride to the border with 3 Argentinian women. Although more expensive ($5/ea), we thought the taxi would save some time over the two local buses we'd have to take (at about $2). I don't think the taxi saved much time, as i saw some people from the local bus right behind us in line. However, the taxi, while cramped was a bit more comfortable than the local bus.

The paved(?) road from San Juan del Sur to the road that runs to the border is a fine example of....something, I am just not sure what. The road is paved but then there are parts that aren't paved. There appears to be construction going on in some spots but there is no equipment around those areas and there are no people with picks and shovels. There are pot holes, and plenty of them. A ride on the road is somewhat like a slalom race - the cars drive from one shoulder to the other and all parts in between.

After the stomach churning taxi ride, we made it to the border.

As we exited the taxi, we were met by many, many men, each wearing "official" ID badges trying to get us to take "necessary" documents. I do not know if they were trying to sell these free documents and i did not bother trying to find out. the walk from the dropoff point to the gate through which you head to Nicaragua immigration is bit like the wild west (except there are tropical trees around). The street is dirt and all the stores, shuttered or not are covered with a fine layer of dirt. and every where around you, you feel like the people want to rip you off.

I wish I had taken some pics but it was not really a time or place for pics. I just wanted to get on the other side of the border.

We passed through a gate, leading to another dirt road and more people trying to "help" you with every thing as you walk to the Nicaragua immigration building.

While you are making this walk, you have to avoid the semi-trucks with thier trailers and the big international buses. There is no walkway and there are no signs. It is every man, woman and child for themselves.

Once comfortable in a non-moving line, in the hot sun, we were approached by money changers and those offering to speed the immigration process for a $5+ dollar fee. I do not know what they do. My guess is that they are able to take your passport in to an official, who then processes it (probably for a cut of the $5). We went the honest route and well more than one hour later, with passports stamped, we made the +/- half-mile walk through a no man's land of dirt road and trucks to the Costa Rica immigration office. While there are no people trying to rip you off during this walk, there are no signs of any sort to offer any instruction. You follow those in front and hope you end up in the right place.

We did end up in the correct spot. There was a bank inside the immigration building where i was able to change USD$50 for 24,000+ Costa Rica money. (I still don't know what it is called.) I felt somewaht rich carring bills worth 5,000 each - however, they're only worth about USD10.

After another passport stamp, the 4 of us hopped in a taxi for an hour-ish ride to Liberia, CR. The ride cost $4 and it was at least an hour long - on these great Costa Rican roads. Yesterday, I was in a taxi from Rivas, Nic to San Juan del Sur, a 40-ish minute ride for $1.75. In Xela, I took a 10 min taxi ride at a cost of $3.50, which I am told was a good deal. I do not know the how's and what's of taxis but somehow they must all make some money.

After arriving in Liberia, 2 of the Argentinians took off one-way and I hopped on a local bus with the other one to come to Tamarindo. It is on the Pacific and seems like a nice place to come and spend some money. I am staying in a window-less dorm at one of the most popular hostels in town. At $10/night, I would have liked to have a window.

I will go out on the town and see if I can find some salsa. I know not many people are speaking spanish in this town but maybe they are doing some latin dancing.

Oh yeah, for those up north, Costa Rica is hot and humid. You are better off with the chill in the air.

bjm

2 comments:

Slippery Rock said...

WOW
Sorry I don't read this as often as you write. You miss an entry, you miss a lot. I love the fact that you are travelling and seeing a part of the world most (all) of us have not yet seen. And you are doing it on the street. That is a great way to see the world, from the ground up. I haven't travelled that way in a long time. Go in peace (but carry a good rock) s

Cathie said...

Hi Brendan, while not going where no man has gone before, you are out in uncharted territory and having to use lots of new skills to get around. Pretty inspiring. You and evan should compare notes about roads and drivers. He's had close calls he doesn't tell us the details of, which I guess is for the best. I do hope your instincts and your guardian angel will help you do the right thing in those precarious moments: know when to hold 'em/know when to fold 'em. Your life is priceless; $10, well it's not much. vaya con dios, mi hermano